As a die-hard New Yorker, I was skeptical that the city with its own namesake cheesesteak sandwich and a very heavy Liberty Bell could ever hold a candle to the Big Apple. Yes, I know, Philly was the original capital of our great nation, but that’s because New Yorkers cared more about finance than bickering over government trivialities. But within the last few years, the City of Brotherly Love has been holding its own weight next to its centuries old giant rival to the north. That’s because it is breaking new gastronomic grounds with its burgeoning Nouveau American culinary scene thanks to Top Chef, Jose Garces and restaurateur Stephen Starr, its lineup of top-notch award-winning breweries, Yuegeling being the country’s oldest, and a serious locavore sensibility to boot. All that while maintaining its ‘down home’ attitude and keeping it real – even if it frightens most visitors.
I admit it, this city has always had a knack for intimidating the daylights out of me, but I can’t help but, well…respect its character. Having lived there two years, although it was hard to get used to at first, its heavy dose of spit-in-your-eye tough love somehow started to grow on me. So recently I set out on mission to recreate those days and hit all the best joints in town, where the combined and unique Philly flavors elevate this city to a whole new class act level. I began by giving into my craving for a juicy bite of real cheesesteak at legendary Geno’s, where by the way if you want to do as the locals do you’ll get your steak topped with Cheese Wiz, and order it ‘cheese wid’ – which translates into cheesesteak wid fried onions. With my belly full and ready to quench my thirst, it dawns on me that I must start harvesting this city’s ‘badness’ (as in Michael Jackson bad) in order to start savoring its sweetness. I will become a hardcore anthropologist, and the best place to harvest anything worthwhile, including local flavor, is anywhere where BEER is served. I will fight fire with fire and blend in like a chameleon in search of finding the ONE thing that this city has that will give the Big Apple a run for its money. My first destination is Fishtown, a gritty up-and-coming neighborhood fraught with tattoo baring artists turned messenger bikers and the kind of cool street culture that the East Village used to have before the Japanese karaoke and mini-mart invasion. Sorry NYC! If I squint I can almost see CBGB’s around the corner with a pierced Blondie look-alike strutting her stuff, wearing beat up Doc Martens and a vest held together by safety pins. Johnny Brenda’s is one of the main reasons people go to Fishtown, even if takes driving through the infamous North Philly ghetto to get to it. It boasts an outstanding rolling line-up of local and national live indie bands, with a selection of fabulous brews and one of the best burgers I’ve ever tasted as part of the downstairs restaurant/bar menu.
Johnny Brenda’s, like its nearby Standard Tap sister-restaurant, in adjacent Northern Liberties, takes great pride in serving wholesome local food and only PA local beer on tap. Now that’s something to rave about: awesome local brews. Sorry New York, you’re about to take a big hit here. This list of awesomeness, cherished by beer lovers nationwide, is comprised of: Yards, Victory, Stoudt’s, Weyerbacher, Sly Fox, and Philadelphia Brewing Company. I don’t hesitate one moment, grab a seat at the dimly red lit bar, and order myself a Yard’s Philadelphia Pale ale, which has been named one of the best pale ales in the country by the New York Times. I love its distinct floral aroma and the crispy finish with light citrus notes and the perfect balance of hops. Dare I try Stoudt’s Fat Dog Stout, a dark oatmeal chocolatey concoction with a 9% alcohol content just to prove that I’m not just a pretty faced imposter trying to look cool? I’m a hard-core New Yorker after all, but no one has to know especially in this patriotic Philly lovin’ part of town. This is a big beer and I must admit at first taste the bitterness assaults my mellowed taste buds and I pucker my cheeks a bit. But it reminds me of Stone’s Imperial Russian Stout, dark and rich with a creamy espresso finish. I swallow and look like an instant pro. If you want to quench your thirst by the liter with traditional German wheat beer on tap, check out Stephen Starr’s super cool beer garden nearby, set in an old industrial building and courtyard – Frankford Hall. 
I’m a sucker for the outdoor beer drinking Oktoberfest vibe, all intermixed with the aroma of freshly baked giant pretzels and crunchy frankfurters beckoning me to come hither. The Aventinus on tap, Bavaria’s oldest dark and complex wheat dopplebock, is a must try on any aspiring beer connoisseur’s list. Definitely one of my all time favorites! I got my last fix of gritty Fishtown at Memphis Taproom, which received some great press for its impressive collection of select Belgians, along with a fun and innovative menu catering to vegetarians and meat lovers alike. Try the Russian River Belgian sour ale alongside their beer battered kosher dills (a.k.a fried pickles), which come with a tangy buttermilk horseradish dip. And if you’re looking for something unusual you might want to try the smoked coconut club sandwich, or the buckwheat noodles topped with grilled peach, cucumber and cilantro.
I realize that as much as visiting a new city revolves around taking in the gastronomic pleasures, that there is lots of culture in between needing to be savored. So I recommend that you might want to start your whole adventure in the City of Brotherly Love by first heading to the very epicenter of culture by stopping off in Fairmount, the area which boasts ‘Museum Row’: The Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Rodin Museum, the Franklin Institute, and the newly relocated Barnes Collection (due Spring 2012). You will also find picturesque riverside Boathouse Row in this part of the city, home of the Schuylkill Navy of Philadelphia and seasonal regattas. There are a couple of outstanding food and beer places that should not be skipped while taking in some art and the local bad-boy in this neck of the woods that is the Eastern State Penitentiary, once the most expensive and famous prison in the world and temporary home of Al Capone. Stop off at the Belgian Café and indulge in a fabulous sampling of Belgians (unless you want to hold out for its legendary sister outpost, Monk’s in Center City) including a selection over 200 bottled beers. If you’re a vegetarian be sure to have their mouth-watering seitan reuben sandwich (my favorite!), otherwise opt for the pastrami version and make sure you don’t skip on the delicious frites. On your way to the infamous Penitentiary you’ll probably need another drink, so make a quick stop at the Bishop’s Collar for a Houblan Choufe on draft or a bottle of the LeftHand 400Lb Monkey. I much prefer the rather smaller and quainter hidden gem that is Bridgidt’s if you want to rub elbows with some colorful yet down-to-earth locals and have a cozy dining experience, with a great beer menu of course.
In the very heart of Philly is the quintessential historical part of town also known as Old City. I urge you to stop at Eulogy Tavern for a huger than huge array of Belgians, and over 300 national and international craft beers – the largest selection of brews in the city. I love this place simply because in my opinion it is ‘the’ place to get outstanding beer in Old City and try ales you’ve never dreamed existed. Plus, the old and narrow two-story copper ceiling building boasts two bars and the most delicious and juicy burger in Philadelphia hands down! It will be crowded, but worth squeezing in every inch. If you want something a bit more gimmicky but downright to the bone old school, you may want to stop at City Tavern, the place John Adams called ‘the most genteel tavern in America’ in 1774, when he attended the First Continental Congress. 
You’ll certainly get a taste of history here, but it will cost you a pretty penny. But hey, it might be worth breaking down and playing the typical tourist card at least once. Just don’t go to this place in shorts and a baseball hat since it’s pretty formal and you will look down right silly next to Colonial staff. If you are still craving a good dose of local history (after all why come to Philadelphia at all if you’re not into this kind of stuff?) but are not into a ‘Historic Williamsburg’ experience, head on down instead to Center City to McGillin’s Olde Ale House, the oldest running Irish pub in Philly which opened its doors in 1860, the year Lincoln took the presidency. This is where you’ll find real good folk drinking good no nonsense beer, hence the rating of this watering hole as one of the top 12 best beer drinking pubs in America. Go straight for their own house specialties like the McGillins 1860 IPA, all proudly brewed locally in Adamstown by Stoudt’s. This place is not your random Irish pub by any stretch of the imagination offering a great selection of outstanding microbrews, paying special homage to its home state. And be sure to check out the shopping scene in this rather glamorous part of town, taking in a tour of lovely Rittenhouse Square. I want to end my travel/beer log of the City of Brotherly Love by urging you to make one final stop, heck… actually, you can even make this the very first stop in Philly and begin your journey here at the one and only Monk’s Café. They call themselves ‘the soul of Belgium in the heart of Philadelphia,’ and by God, how right they are! I can try to compare Monk’s to other places but I would be wasting my breath because this place is truly an institution in and of itself – and well worth waiting two hours if you have to, just to sample the mouth-watering beer, wine, or coconut infused moules and the superb array of Belgian ales boasting the finest Trappist selection anywhere. In the end it was the first place I asked to be taken to as soon as I arrived in Philly, and it is the one place that beckoned me to stay and give this city a chance to conquer if not yet my heart then definitely my holier-than-thou taste buds. Let’s just say what will always make Philly stand out and shine in my eyes is not so much its dose of tough love as its double dose of good taste.
Check out my reportage of the Philly Naked Bike Race which I wrote for PhillyEcoCity – an event that takes place yearly, and that invites you to stare at hundreds of jolly people riding naked on their bikes while promoting ‘going green.‘
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