If you love clam chowder, have a weakness for the sea, and enjoy a very dry and ‘wicked’ sense of humor, set your sails for Maaah-buhl-head, Massachussets! We spent a whole week shooting our ‘IndieWoman Sails Its Sails in Marblehead Harbor’ IndieVideo, to bring you the unique flavors and sights of this marvelous place; all this while learning to sail, chatting up the locals, and meeting up with Christine Baze, our IndieModel songstress extraordinaire and founder of the The Yellow Umbrella Organization. Trust us, after reading this article and watching our video you’ll be strutting to David Gray’s hit ‘Sail Away With Me Honey’ too, while packing your bags and counting the hours to your departure! 
This enchanting New England seafaring town, perfectly poised on a rocky peninsula just 17 miles north from Boston, has a lot to brag about – boasting 375 years worth of history for starters. We’re talking beautiful beaches, mouthwatering local seafood, colorful local characters, sailing tournaments, legendary yacht clubs, and history galore. Many movies have been filmed here, including “The Witches of Eastwick,” starring Cher, Susan Sarandon, Michelle Pfeiffer and Jack Nicholson, “Moonlight Mile,” “The Good Son,” with Jake Gyllenhaal, and most recently “Grown Ups,” starring local New Englander Adam Sandler. Many a New England movie accents have also been botched up here, but who cares, when you’re in Maaah-buhl-head you’ve got bigger fish to fry, literally!
Everything about this town, past and present, is rooted in the very waters caressing its famed rugged coastline. Rumor has it that there is over a ten year waiting list to get a mooring permit for your boat in the harbor. Since its settlement in 1629, Marblehead has been beckoning skilled sailors, fishermen, zealous patriots and libertarians alike to its shores. Not to mention a plethora of good-natured visitors, adventurers, sailing experts and afficionados in search of a slice of authentic American culture and maritime activities. Actually, make that a slice of pie a la mode! Marblehead dishes a rich indigenous history, like a thick slice of all American apple pie – originating with its native Naumkeags settlers of the Algonquin Nation and extending to its Revolutionary War heroes – against a dramatic backdrop of maritime history, which is the ice cream on top of the pie.
The first English settlers migrated from nearby Salem in the early 1600’s to escape the rigid Puritanical laws abounding there, and lived peacefully alongside the native Naumkeag Indians, who were eventually entirely decimated by a smallpox epidemic in 1619. Marblehead first built an international reputation based on the abundant fishing around its coastline. This local seafood goldmine attracted hundreds of fisherman vessels from as far as Cornwall, England and the Channel Islands. The very thing that put Marblehead on the map by virtue of its phenomenal coastal location would bring this town further international acclaim through SAILING. Marblehead boasts one of the finest displays of sailing craft anywhere. In the summertime the harbor is so packed with sailing yachts that one can literally walk from boat to boat for hours and avoid land. Truly, there is no hotter place to be if you enjoy water sports and have a love for sailing. This coastal gem is known worldwide for its international sailing races. It’s the starting and finishing point to such destinations as Kiel (Germany), San Sebastian (Spain), and Bermuda. A not to be missed annual race between Halifax, Nova Scotia, and Marblehead, which first began in 1905. And the yearly mid-summer Marblehead Race Week competition, which dates back to 1889, still attracts yachtsmen and expert sailors from around the world. There are countless races between April and November, so it’s best to check the Marblehead Racing Association website for everything related, including how to register to participate.
I should mention that before being dubbed the ‘Yachting Capital of the World,’ or more affectionately ‘the drinking capital with a sailing problem,’ this quaint town acquired the ‘disputed’ title of the ‘Birthplace of the American Navy.’ It was General Glover’s Marblehead Regiment, which rowed George Washington and his troops in the ‘ye navy’ vessels across the Delaware on that fateful and stormy night of December 25th, 1776.
This explains the generational patriotic zeal and national pride associated with these down-to-earth, yet wickedly high-spirited New Englanders. No wonder Marblehead has earned its mark as one of the top ten places to visit during the Fourth of July celebrations. The perimeter of the entire harbor gets lit up in red at sundown, followed by a spectacular fire works show. The boats tie up two to four next to one another, and party revelers mingle from boat to boat partying, drinking, and sharing each other’s gastronomic delights from fabulous appetizers to grilled filet mignon and burgers. This is the way to celebrate the national holiday. Visitors unlucky enough to party with the jetsetters can still watch this awesome display from the harbor. If you’re dying to get on a boat I suggest donning some false wooden teeth and dressing up as George Washington as the fire works go off. That will give you instant acclaim with the local yacht owners, and you’ll be hopping from boat to boat in no time.
Must See Places
That brings me to all the great places you can easily discover on foot, since you probably won’t be able to make it on a boat anyway. Marblehead is by all means a walking town. And it’s a place that comes fully alive in the summer months. There are just as many activities on land as there are on the water, if that’s possible. I suggest checking out Marblehead’s Official Tourist Site for all things related to walking maps, tours, and additional places to see, dining, and accommodations.
Visiting Old Town is usually the first pit stop on any visitor’s itinerary, unless it’s 98 degrees and you’re dying to jump in the ocean. But there’s plenty of time for that, so be patient. This part of town has retained its original architecture dating from 17th century, and it’s the epitome of a picturesque New England town. Crocker Park, located just up on a hill from here overlooking the harbor. Sit here for a moments and enjoy spectacular views of the entire harbor. On a clear day you can see downtown Boston. The locals call this ‘a wicked good view.’ This park also hosts live concerts during the spring or summer season, and one every day during the Marblehead Arts Walk. The best way to visit Old Town is to take a tour with one of the spirited local volunteers. There are so many hidden nooks and crannies that it would be a shame to miss out on all those hidden treasures. Call the Marblehead Chamber of Commerce and get a tour listing.
Abott Hall is definitely the most important cultural pit stop on your trip to Marblehead. It is the current town hall, and a prestigious historical museum all in one, and it is open to the public year round. Here you will find many important works of art and historical artifacts, including the deed to Marblehead from the local Native American tribe, as well as the original painting Spirit of ’76, by Archibald MacNeal Willard, which has been reproduced countless times.
The Old Town House, built in 1727, is one of the oldest town halls in America under continuous use. Many pre-revolutionary war meetings were held there. It is often referred to as “Marblehead’s Cradle of Liberty” and certainly worth a see if you’re a history buff. Keeping in the spirit of the American Revolution, head down to Green Street to see the unique circular brick building that is the Powder House. There are only three pre-Revolutionary powder houses in the country still standing, and this Marblehead veteran built in 1755 is one of them. It was built to store gunpowder and provide storage for muskets and ammunition.
The best way to truly enjoy this costal town is by taking in the sun at Devereux Beach, Marblehead’s premier beach and the number one hotspot in the warm months for the locals. You can’t beat the scenery for starters, and if you want to have a cocktail with your suntan head to Lime Rickey’s, a lively restaurant located right on the beach. This place offers good local fare and hosts weekly live music to serenade the bathing beauties.
After a swim or picnic on Devereux Beach, take a walk along the Causeway, which connects Devereux Beach on the mainland, to the Marblehead Neck, known locally as simply ‘the neck’. The Causeway was originally built to connect the Neck to the mainland for more practical reasons, but nowadays it offers the best scenery and people watching in town. Bring your camera because you will have fantastic views of the Atlantic Ocean and Devereux beach on one side, and the Marblehead Harbor on the other. While walking over the Causeway you may catch a view of not only sun gods and goddesses but also surfers, kite surfers, rollerbladers, cyclists, and a view of downtown Boston on a clear day. Occasionally you may see a seal pop its head up around July or August. Take a walk around the Neck to see the multi-million dollar homes owned by some very famous entrepreneurs in the entertainment, tech, biotech and finance industries.
The Landing is the place to see local fishermen bring in their daily catch. You may even be able to buy the fresh fish right off the boat if you ask. And be sure to say you love Maaah-buh-lhead, so that they understand you. This is also where locals pull up their boats to gas up or hit up one of the restaurants for lunch.
The Marblehead Light Tower located in Chandler Hovis Park sits at the end of the Neck, and over’s a spectacular vantage point to watch the sailing boats enter and exit the harbor. You can also see races from this strategic location. The park offers swimming, pavilions, picnic tables, and ample parking.
Fort Sewall, once an armed fort used to defend against the British, is now a tranquil park with enchanting vistas of Marblehead Harbor. It still houses old bunkers and underground cells where detainees were once kept. This is also a place where many local celebrations and parties take place. Fort Beach, located right at its entrance, offers a great view of Marblehead Neck and Chandler Hovey Park.
Must Have Food
The Barnacle is the oldest restaurant and our favorite spot for fresh mussels and unbeatable New England Clam Chowder. Check our IndieVideo page to feast your eyes on Claudia sampling the maaah-velous local cuisine while chatting with the owner! Food notwithstanding, its location right on the water gives this restaurant a million dollar view of the harbor without breaking the bank. 141 Front Street, Marblehead, MA 01945
Maddies Sail Loft in Old Town is a favorite spot for locals. Its one the oldest local hangouts for sailors and locals alike, and a great spot to grab yummy pub food and beer in a comfortable, unpretentious setting. During racing season it’s the popular hangout. You’ll find some of the most accomplished sailors at this bar. 15 State Street, Marblehead, MA 01945
The Landing restaurant offers more upscale fine dining, and it features a much coveted deck overlooking the central part of the harbor. You can catch all the action while enjoying fine wine and delicious food. 81 Front Street, Marblehead, MA 01945
The Driftwood is a local breakfast hot spot right next to The Landing. This place has been around since the early days of the fishing industry. On the weekends don’t be surprised to find a line out the door, so get there early. It’s simple but wholesome breakfast food, but the experience is worth every minute. 63 Front Street, Marblehead, MA 01945
Places to Stay
Harbor Light Inn, 4-star elegant inn hosts some very famous people during the summer months. You never know whom you may just meet in sitting at the bar. Maybe a famous sailing world champion, maybe a playwright, maybe Adam Sandler. Book far ahead to reserve a room at this stylish venue.
The Marblehead On Harbor Inn, a beautiful Victorian home built in 1881 is a gorgeous place to stay within its own private beach and stunning views of Marblehead Harbor.
27 Front Street Marblehead Summerhouse is the place to stay for an intimate experience, and for an authentic ‘days of yore’ experience. It is located in the heart of historic Old Town, and you can walk out the back gate straight into Crocker Park and the waterfront.
Mark Your Calendars
During the summer Marblehead truly shines. Overall, there are hundreds of concerts and events going on, including a greatly anticipated season of music featuring Summer Jazz and Symphony by the Sea. Maritime Week starts on August 3rd this year, and it will inaugurate with a celebrating of Marblehead’s Marine Aviation Centennial. Oh, I forgot to mention, Marblehead also calls itself “The Birthplace of Marine Aviation.” I told you this town had a lot to brag about! Check the Calendar of Events page with the Marblehead Chamber of Commerce, and remember to get the accent down before you set your sails for this wicked great destination!
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